Autumn has begun to paint Tirana’s mountains in golden colors. After a long and scorching summer, golden grass now covers the slopes, while red shrubs add warmer tones. At the same time, green trees still dominate parts of the landscape, creating striking combinations of green, yellow, brown and red.

A hike through Malin me Gropa in the Tirana Highlands offers a spectacular autumn experience. Long golden grass moves gently in the cool September breeze. Suddenly, the mountain reveals its famous lunar landscape, which now glows with golden colors.

Autumn also transforms the villages of the Tirana Highlands. New colors, aromas and flavors fill the landscape. As visitors travel toward Mount Meçeku, sunlight constantly changes the scenery. The mountain rises as the highest point of Malin me Gropa and stands among the area’s most remarkable natural attractions.

The journey starts in the picturesque village of Shënmëri. Its Christian name stands out in an area with a predominantly Muslim population. However, similar names appear throughout the Shëngjergj Valley. Shëngjergj, Shënmëri, Shëllinë, or Shën Elena, and Shëngjin all preserve traces of the area’s pre-Ottoman past.

The valley also preserves valuable historical heritage. Ruins and remains of old churches date mainly from the 12th to the 14th centuries. During the medieval period, people knew the area as “Tomadhe,” or “Tame Dea,” meaning “Goddess of the Water Springs.”

Meanwhile, the Tirana Highlands offer a hidden escape just an hour from the capital. High mountains rise above hidden canyons, mysterious caves and lush waterfalls.

Local hospitality adds another dimension to the journey. As visitors walk through the villages in the fresh morning air, livestock sounds fill the surroundings. Gardens still offer the last figs of the season, while grapevines hang heavily around fences. Local residents welcome visitors with smiles and invite them to taste their produce.

Walnut and chestnut trees also stand full of fruit. Farmers prepare to harvest the walnuts, while the chestnuts continue to ripen.

The trail then climbs through the shrubs. The scent of pine trees guides visitors toward the forest.

Malin me Gropa owes much of its unique character to its karst landscape. Water has gradually dissolved the limestone and created hundreds of sinkholes and enormous depressions across the mountain.

As hikers reach the open mountain terrain, the famous lunar landscape comes into view. However, autumn gives the landscape a completely different appearance. In winter, snow turns the area gray and cold. Now, golden grass covers the slopes and plateaus like a vast carpet.

Above the landscape, a deep blue sky stretches across the horizon, dotted with white clouds.

The final climb takes hikers toward Mount Meçeku, which rises to around 1,828 meters. The ascent requires some effort, but the view from the summit quickly makes up for the climb.

From the top, golden hills and valleys stretch in every direction. The distant blue horizon seems to merge with the sky, while the landscape creates an almost dreamlike view.

The descent offers another chance to enjoy the scenery. With the hardest part behind them, hikers can take in every detail of the mountain.

Back in the village, traditional guesthouses and restaurants welcome visitors with local dishes. Warm herb-filled pie, the area’s famous tomato salad, cornbread with brine and freshly harvested potatoes offer a true taste of the region.

Shënmëri also supplies an important resource to Tirana: drinking water. Visitors can drink directly from local taps, while the village’s springs continue to support the capital’s water supply.

Six or seven ancient springs emerge beneath the rocks of Shënmëri. They draw their water from the Malin me Gropa massif and produce a remarkable flow. According to scientific sources, karst water collects in large underground reservoirs. Since 1964, steel pipelines have carried this water to Tirana.

Although Shënmëri has lost population over the years, the village remains active. Around 300 families once lived there. Today, new red roofs shine under the sun, while visitors admire the landscape from the balconies of local guesthouses.

Moreover, tourism has helped revive the economy of Shënmëri and the wider Shëngjergj area. Hundreds of visitors now stay at guesthouses and agritourism farms along the roads and throughout the valley.

Local agriculture adds another attraction. Near the guesthouse, a pickup truck carries crates of freshly harvested tomatoes. Along the road, visitors can stop at local fields and buy the famous Shëngjergj tomatoes directly from farmers.

In one memorable moment, local farmers even invite visitors to pick the tomatoes themselves. The experience brings them closer to the land and lets them enjoy the fresh scent of the leaves and soil.

The Shëngjergj tomatoes have earned their reputation for good reason. Their sweetness and rich flavor make them one of the area’s most popular local products.

Finally, the setting sun brings the day to an end. Visitors leave Shënmëri with memories of golden mountains, fresh local flavors and the hospitality of its people.

Yet the journey does not truly end. Every season transforms the landscape with new colors, aromas and experiences, offering visitors another reason to return.

/a.c/