With its stunning natural beauty, rich history, and warm hospitality, Albania has emerged as a worthy alternative to Italy or Greece, writes Natalie B. Compton in The Washington Post.

Videos often show crystal-clear lakes surrounded by high mountains or pristine beaches lined with orderly umbrellas. Can you believe this is Albania?

Friends, travel experts, and foreign tourists insist Albania rivals Italy, Croatia, and Greece.

“The small Mediterranean country offers everything—food, nature, nightlife—at a much lower cost and without the crowds,” they said.

It sounded almost too good to be true. So, this summer, my husband Dan and I decided to take a Balkan road trip.

We started in Croatia with a camper van. We spent a day on Hvar Island, sailing the Adriatic, eating seafood pasta, and drinking local wine. Then we camped on the Peljesac Peninsula and marveled at Kotor Bay in Montenegro.

Next came the unknown: Albania. Would it live up to our expectations?

Crystal lakes and green hills

Our plan was to start in the north. The camper van gave us flexibility, letting us cover most of the itinerary at our own pace.

We began in Shkodra County, famous for mountains, lakes, farm stays, hiking trails, and history. The city of Shkodra is one of the country’s cultural centers. It was quieter than southern beaches, where most tourism is concentrated—similar to Umbria versus Amalfi in Italy.

More than 11.6 million international tourists visited Albania in 2024, an increase of over 82% from 2019, according to the national statistics office. Officials forecast even higher numbers for 2025. Between January and August, nearly 9 million foreign visitors arrived.

The Ministry of Tourism aims for sustainable tourism rather than mass tourism. Projects like the new Vlorë airport, set to open for commercial flights this year, and luxury resorts by Jared Kushner are underway.

Walking through villages, we passed tobacco farms and mosques before reaching Bujtina Rragam, a newly discovered guesthouse and restaurant listed on Google Maps. Our room was large and comfortable, with colorful local textiles, high wooden ceilings, a fireplace, and a balcony—for $90 per night. Breakfast was included. We had struck gold.

More visitors expected

We drove 186 miles from Shkodra to the coast, combining highways and mountain roads. Soon, we reached Himarë, quieter than larger coastal towns like Vlora, Durrës, or Saranda.

The Ionian Sea sparkled on the horizon. Himarë’s town beach had neat rows of umbrellas and perfectly clear water. Accommodation ranged from budget hostels to luxury hotels costing hundreds per night. Our hillside guesthouse charged just $49 per night.

By evening, the beach was full of families and couples. We found a seafood restaurant with positive online reviews. Dinner for two cost $60.

We also visited Livadhi Beach, slightly busier than the town but just a few kilometers north. At Camping Moskato, we parked our camper for $35 under an olive tree, then walked three minutes to the shore. The site offered clean showers, a laundry area, and a restaurant serving morning coffee and evening beer. Nearby luxury hotels charged over $300 per night during peak season.

We spent the afternoon exploring rocky beaches, feeling as if we had discovered a secret island. At Blue Bay Restaurant behind Livadhi, we enjoyed fried local fish, a salad with orange slices, olives, and onions, seafood pasta, cooked vegetables, and wine. Lunch cost $60—one of our priciest meals but far cheaper than in Puglia, Mallorca, or Malta. And it was delicious.

More than a copy

From Livadhi, we headed to Berat, known for its white Ottoman houses along the Osum River, staying overnight at Alpeta Agrotourism and Winery in Roshnik. We later returned to Tirana and stayed near the airport, ending our Balkan adventure.

One week wasn’t enough. We never reached the highest peaks, remote villages, or Albania’s enchanting Blue Eye spring.

The country offers idyllic beaches only reachable by boat and ruins older than Rome that we didn’t have time to visit. What we discovered in Albania was far more than a “copy” of its neighbors.

When friends ask about our trip, we don’t say it felt like Italy or Greece. Instead, we tell them about Bujtina Rragam, waking in a rural village surrounded by mountains and farmland, strolling through fields, and enjoying fresh local cheese, honey, and fig jam.

We share stories of swimming in a private lake and the breathtaking color of Livadhi Beach waters. Albania is unforgettable.

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https://www.washingtonpost.com/travel/2025/09/26/albania-beach-camping-farm-stay/